Horseshoeing with iron shoes and nails dates back to the year 500 and before that plant parts and animal skins may have been used to protect the horse's feet. My point is that farriers have been providing hoof care for centuries; before x-rays, radiographs, ultrasound, shock wave, and other modern technology available today to diagnose and treat lameness. True we have been able to help horses return to soundness with these techniques, but what is fluff and what really is the key to sound horses and how do farriers play a part. Historians record that Nero had his horse shod with silver and his wife’s with gold. I am sure his horses were sound, but I highly doubt it was because of the special shoes.
So much rides on the hoof, that at times I feel many things are blamed on the condition of the hoof. Horse owners and veterinarians are quick with trimming or shoeing technique suggestions. But do they really factor in age, diet, breed, use, stalling conditions, bone structure, confirmation, etc? As a farrier, I love the advancements of the industry and the science involved to improve the condition of the horse through hoof management. However, I find that when a horse is “off” and no one has any real idea then “it must be the toe is too long”, “the horse has been trimmed too short”, “the shoe is too long”, “the shoe is resting on the sole”, “the sole at the wall needs to be part of the support”, “the angle is too steep”, “the angle is too low”, “if we give him heel support”, “pad the shoe”, “go barefoot”, ….you get my point. Sometimes even when the problem is found to be in the hock or the knee, etc it still gets blamed on the condition of the hoof. Because the applications of various shoeing/trimming techniques often help, it seems when in doubt blame the farrier.
When in reality a balanced foot, properly prepared for the activity of the horse remains the bona fide job of the farrier. Of course, knowledge of the numerous modern ways and means of acquiring this in a lame horse does help to perfect a balanced hoof. But all knowledge is not of equal value, some things are just interesting to know, but anything you learn needs to be applied wisely to be of value. So my question is, what else is going? Why does the unknown always get directed to the foot?
I love my job, it has become advanced, yet, as evident as the soundness of horses have been through the centuries before modern science, it really shouldn’t be complicated. I believe even when using these advances it still all comes down to trimming the horse to be balanced in stance, as well as, in motion.
Thursday, December 31, 2009
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Christmas
What is the meaning of Christmas?
1. To send out greeting cards and keep in touch? “Do not forsake the fellowship with others.” Hebrews 10:25
2. To Party, Party, Party and eat and drink some more? “There is nothing better for a man than to eat, drink, and tell himself that his labor is good.” Ecclesiastes.
3. To take a day off (or more) from work? “So there remains a Sabbath rest for the people of God” Hebrews 4
4. To celebrate the winter solstice? “The heavens declare the glory of God” Psalm 19
5. To give food, clothes, and toys to the needy? “if I give all my possessions to the poor, but do not have love, it profits me nothing” I Corinthians 13
6. To celebrate the birth of Jesus? “I bring you good news of great joy which will be for all the people; for today in the city of David there has been born for you a Savior, who is Christ the Lord” Luke 2
You pick.
But I’ll give you a hint….all the answers are in the Word…”and the Word became flesh and dwelt among us.” John 1
Yup, you’re right! Jesus is the answer for the world today.
Merry Christmas to all!!
1. To send out greeting cards and keep in touch? “Do not forsake the fellowship with others.” Hebrews 10:25
2. To Party, Party, Party and eat and drink some more? “There is nothing better for a man than to eat, drink, and tell himself that his labor is good.” Ecclesiastes.
3. To take a day off (or more) from work? “So there remains a Sabbath rest for the people of God” Hebrews 4
4. To celebrate the winter solstice? “The heavens declare the glory of God” Psalm 19
5. To give food, clothes, and toys to the needy? “if I give all my possessions to the poor, but do not have love, it profits me nothing” I Corinthians 13
6. To celebrate the birth of Jesus? “I bring you good news of great joy which will be for all the people; for today in the city of David there has been born for you a Savior, who is Christ the Lord” Luke 2
You pick.
But I’ll give you a hint….all the answers are in the Word…”and the Word became flesh and dwelt among us.” John 1
Yup, you’re right! Jesus is the answer for the world today.
Merry Christmas to all!!
Sunday, November 29, 2009
"Cold" Shoeing :)
“Cold” can be a relative term. More times then not I dread going out to shoe when the temperature is “cold”. I mean I usually set limits, but even they vary. Generally, if it isn’t above 20 degrees I say I won’t go shoe. Yet if the sun is shining and the wind isn’t blowing and there is a dry spot with no snow, I have found myself out under a horse at 15 degrees. And when the temperature gets to 20 I have my sweatshirt off!
Don’t get me wrong; I still dread getting started. Unloading a metal anvil stand, a 90-pound block of steel, a metal hoof stand, along with placing steel handled tools into a shoeing box pulls whatever natural body heat completely away from fingers. I’m usually dressed in a cap with earmuffs, a wild rag tied around my neck already covered with a turtleneck, a long sleeve shirt, sweatshirt, and frequently, an outer jacket. Not to mention the long johns under the jeans adorned with a pair of stiff shoeing chaps.
Working the nippers and rasp is fairly doable wearing gloves, but nailing is a different story. Usually, by the time I am ready to nail my body heat has come up and circulation to the extremities allows for bare hands to handle steel nails. The trick is to remember to blow on the nails as you put them into your mouth so as not to have the metal freeze to your lips!!
I have found the shoeing procedure that warms a person up the quickest is rasping the outside of the hoof wall (i.e. flares, old clinches, etc) in the forward position. I know this sounds unsophisticated, but after figuring this out I’ll get to that part of the work as quickly as possible and then before you know it the outer jacket is off, the earmuffs come off and then the wild rag. I typically, offer these to the horse handler, because as I warm up they are complaining about the cold….and I’ve learned to make it a priority to keep my handler happy!!
So what do I look for when determining what 20 degree conditions aren’t too cold to shoe?
1. Sunshine
2. No wind
3. Dry ground
4. And of course a heated barn
The best part of being cold is the feeling of getting warm. The welcoming, comfy feeling of warming up is near impossible in the absence of being cold.
Don’t get me wrong; I still dread getting started. Unloading a metal anvil stand, a 90-pound block of steel, a metal hoof stand, along with placing steel handled tools into a shoeing box pulls whatever natural body heat completely away from fingers. I’m usually dressed in a cap with earmuffs, a wild rag tied around my neck already covered with a turtleneck, a long sleeve shirt, sweatshirt, and frequently, an outer jacket. Not to mention the long johns under the jeans adorned with a pair of stiff shoeing chaps.
Working the nippers and rasp is fairly doable wearing gloves, but nailing is a different story. Usually, by the time I am ready to nail my body heat has come up and circulation to the extremities allows for bare hands to handle steel nails. The trick is to remember to blow on the nails as you put them into your mouth so as not to have the metal freeze to your lips!!
I have found the shoeing procedure that warms a person up the quickest is rasping the outside of the hoof wall (i.e. flares, old clinches, etc) in the forward position. I know this sounds unsophisticated, but after figuring this out I’ll get to that part of the work as quickly as possible and then before you know it the outer jacket is off, the earmuffs come off and then the wild rag. I typically, offer these to the horse handler, because as I warm up they are complaining about the cold….and I’ve learned to make it a priority to keep my handler happy!!
So what do I look for when determining what 20 degree conditions aren’t too cold to shoe?
1. Sunshine
2. No wind
3. Dry ground
4. And of course a heated barn
The best part of being cold is the feeling of getting warm. The welcoming, comfy feeling of warming up is near impossible in the absence of being cold.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Hoof Growth
Hoof growth often becomes a common topic while I am working under a horse. How fast? How much? And especially coming into winter, many people ask if it is true that hoof growth slows during the winter months. Personally, I think there are other factors involved that make it appear as though the hoof is growing slower.
But first let me mention a few ideas concerning hoof growth in general. A typical hoof will grow about an inch every 3 – 4 months. (That’s typically a new hoof per year) Of course, if a horse is barefoot and on a hard surface this amount of growth is normally not observed because it is wearing off as it grows. “They” say the more a horse is exercised the faster the hoof will tend to grow. This theory is based on the idea that the frog is put into play and pumps blood and increases the growth. Over the years I have observed an increase in hoof growth in the fall. My theory is that the horse is growing a winter coat and since the hair and hoof seem to be related in nutrition (i.e. what is good for the hair coat is good for the hoof), whatever tells the horse to grow more hair in preparation for winter is, at the same time, growing more hoof. I would be interested to hear if others think this is true and if in the warmer climates the hoof tends to have no significant hoof growth change at any time.
As far as people thinking the horse hoof grows slower in the winter, I think, it is a little bit of a misconception. Possibly: 1) the horse is not being used as much, 2) the shoes are pulled and the ground is hard thus wearing the hoof as it grows, and 3) the last time the horse was trimmed in the fall there was an excess amount of growth to compare to when trimming the horse the next time during the winter.
Keep in mind, I am just a dumb shoer, most of my blogs consist of thoughts I’ve had over the 25+ years of working with my head below my butt…and now for my theory about Global Warming…….
But first let me mention a few ideas concerning hoof growth in general. A typical hoof will grow about an inch every 3 – 4 months. (That’s typically a new hoof per year) Of course, if a horse is barefoot and on a hard surface this amount of growth is normally not observed because it is wearing off as it grows. “They” say the more a horse is exercised the faster the hoof will tend to grow. This theory is based on the idea that the frog is put into play and pumps blood and increases the growth. Over the years I have observed an increase in hoof growth in the fall. My theory is that the horse is growing a winter coat and since the hair and hoof seem to be related in nutrition (i.e. what is good for the hair coat is good for the hoof), whatever tells the horse to grow more hair in preparation for winter is, at the same time, growing more hoof. I would be interested to hear if others think this is true and if in the warmer climates the hoof tends to have no significant hoof growth change at any time.
As far as people thinking the horse hoof grows slower in the winter, I think, it is a little bit of a misconception. Possibly: 1) the horse is not being used as much, 2) the shoes are pulled and the ground is hard thus wearing the hoof as it grows, and 3) the last time the horse was trimmed in the fall there was an excess amount of growth to compare to when trimming the horse the next time during the winter.
Keep in mind, I am just a dumb shoer, most of my blogs consist of thoughts I’ve had over the 25+ years of working with my head below my butt…and now for my theory about Global Warming…….
Monday, September 7, 2009
The "N" word in horse lameness
Well, as per usual spending much time being creative at the computer during the summer months has proved next to impossible. Here is a little thought on an age old hoof lameness.
Over the years the “N”–word has been changed-up a little, almost like the number of methods available to shoe for this lameness. There has always been an array of techniques with more added as the pathology is re-visited. I am talking about navicular, which now tends to be termed navicular-syndrome, heel pain, or anything but straight navicular. Which is all fine and dandy. My main concern is the method of shoeing or trimming to aid in the comfort or healing of the horse.
The other day I had a client who’s vet injected his horse in the navicular area and said she would have her shoer come do some corrective shoeing on the horse. I was going to be there to trim another horse and told the owner I could probably do whatever she recommended. Well, when I got there he said the vet just said to do what I normally do for a navicular horse…. In my lifetime of shoeing there has been no one “normal” way to shoe a horse with navicular. I have reversed a shoe, raised heels with pads and/or swelled heels, applied bar shoes, rolled toes, squared toes, rocker toes, EDSS, and combinations of any of the above. Usually the method applied was at the discretion of the vet.
In this particular case I was at a little bit of a loss. Since I am relatively new to the area with no real repute with any particular vet, I was put in a hard place. But when I did my questioning and the few procedures I know to check for severity and found very little lameness I used the KISS method. And kept it plain and simple. Though I really like the reverse shoe method I kept it all very uncomplicated and just broadened the toe and rolled it, bringing the breakover back and supported the heels with a little extra heel length. (Some would call this a natural balance shoe, others would cringe to use that term though whatever the term it is the same mechanism).
Well it made me think how many different approaches I have used over the years for navicular, navicular-syndrome, heel pain type problems. And gave me something to document on my blog.
Over the years the “N”–word has been changed-up a little, almost like the number of methods available to shoe for this lameness. There has always been an array of techniques with more added as the pathology is re-visited. I am talking about navicular, which now tends to be termed navicular-syndrome, heel pain, or anything but straight navicular. Which is all fine and dandy. My main concern is the method of shoeing or trimming to aid in the comfort or healing of the horse.
The other day I had a client who’s vet injected his horse in the navicular area and said she would have her shoer come do some corrective shoeing on the horse. I was going to be there to trim another horse and told the owner I could probably do whatever she recommended. Well, when I got there he said the vet just said to do what I normally do for a navicular horse…. In my lifetime of shoeing there has been no one “normal” way to shoe a horse with navicular. I have reversed a shoe, raised heels with pads and/or swelled heels, applied bar shoes, rolled toes, squared toes, rocker toes, EDSS, and combinations of any of the above. Usually the method applied was at the discretion of the vet.
In this particular case I was at a little bit of a loss. Since I am relatively new to the area with no real repute with any particular vet, I was put in a hard place. But when I did my questioning and the few procedures I know to check for severity and found very little lameness I used the KISS method. And kept it plain and simple. Though I really like the reverse shoe method I kept it all very uncomplicated and just broadened the toe and rolled it, bringing the breakover back and supported the heels with a little extra heel length. (Some would call this a natural balance shoe, others would cringe to use that term though whatever the term it is the same mechanism).
Well it made me think how many different approaches I have used over the years for navicular, navicular-syndrome, heel pain type problems. And gave me something to document on my blog.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Too Hot to Trot (type)
Summer here really hasn't been too hot, until the last couple of weeks. Shoeing has been busy and I haven't taken the time to post this month. I'd like to keep a flow going so thought I would post something on this last day of July. So I figured it could be about working in the heat.
I feel fortunate that all the places I've lived and shod horses have been in dry climates. Shade works wonders while working on a hot day. Shade from trees, horse trailers, houses, barns, and quite frankly even the horse itself definitely makes things a "shade" cooler here in the West. Yep, I have been known to ask the horse holder to move the horse around so the side I am working on is in the shade! Often times I turn down the offer to go inside a three-sided shed to get away from the sun. If there is no circulation it can feel hotter than outside under the sun where maybe you can feel the slightest breeze.
I remember some clients I had that also showed beef cattle at the local fair and the steers would be in an enclosed stall with cooler fans going and I would be out in the hot corral shoeing!!
I love the clients that offer me a cold drink!
I've learned not to compoain when it's hot. I always say that "if it isn't too hot, it's too cold, and if it isn't too cold the bugs are out, and if the bugs aren't out and it's not too cold, the horses are shedding hair all over me. And if none of the above are true it must be fall and that is the best season, so why complain."
gotta love shoe'n!!
I feel fortunate that all the places I've lived and shod horses have been in dry climates. Shade works wonders while working on a hot day. Shade from trees, horse trailers, houses, barns, and quite frankly even the horse itself definitely makes things a "shade" cooler here in the West. Yep, I have been known to ask the horse holder to move the horse around so the side I am working on is in the shade! Often times I turn down the offer to go inside a three-sided shed to get away from the sun. If there is no circulation it can feel hotter than outside under the sun where maybe you can feel the slightest breeze.
I remember some clients I had that also showed beef cattle at the local fair and the steers would be in an enclosed stall with cooler fans going and I would be out in the hot corral shoeing!!
I love the clients that offer me a cold drink!
I've learned not to compoain when it's hot. I always say that "if it isn't too hot, it's too cold, and if it isn't too cold the bugs are out, and if the bugs aren't out and it's not too cold, the horses are shedding hair all over me. And if none of the above are true it must be fall and that is the best season, so why complain."
gotta love shoe'n!!
Friday, June 19, 2009
In reference to a June 2009Western Horseman article about the ethics of showing young horses, I’d like to make a comment from the hoof standpoint (no pun intended :).
Many times the soundness or lameness of the horse originates from the hoof. Thus when discussing the training and competing of young horses I believe it is essential to consider proper hoof care and soundness.
I have recently been doing a lot of trimming at a cutting horse barn of a nationally acclaimed cutting horse trainer. I say trimming for two reasons. First, they already have a shoer who has been with them for a number of years. Since I am new to the area and trying to re-build a clientele base, I introduced myself to this trainer and have since taken over trimming horses that the shoer just isn’t getting scheduled. Second, he and his wife believe that the young horses going through their first year of training don’t really need shoes because they are being ridden in a nice sandy arena and getting proper nutrition and exercise and trimmed on a regular basis. I believe the horses they raise and have kept barefoot into the horses three year old year have good, sound, as well as, healthy size (compared to many cutting horses) feet. Thus, in my opinion, less lameness issues tend to arise as these youngsters are pushed through the training they need to win at the National level. If a colt’s welfare is to remain the first priority, and their minds can take the pressure then once again reassess the old adage “no hoof, no horse”.
Many times the soundness or lameness of the horse originates from the hoof. Thus when discussing the training and competing of young horses I believe it is essential to consider proper hoof care and soundness.
I have recently been doing a lot of trimming at a cutting horse barn of a nationally acclaimed cutting horse trainer. I say trimming for two reasons. First, they already have a shoer who has been with them for a number of years. Since I am new to the area and trying to re-build a clientele base, I introduced myself to this trainer and have since taken over trimming horses that the shoer just isn’t getting scheduled. Second, he and his wife believe that the young horses going through their first year of training don’t really need shoes because they are being ridden in a nice sandy arena and getting proper nutrition and exercise and trimmed on a regular basis. I believe the horses they raise and have kept barefoot into the horses three year old year have good, sound, as well as, healthy size (compared to many cutting horses) feet. Thus, in my opinion, less lameness issues tend to arise as these youngsters are pushed through the training they need to win at the National level. If a colt’s welfare is to remain the first priority, and their minds can take the pressure then once again reassess the old adage “no hoof, no horse”.
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Correct Horse Handling Prepares for Show Season
Did you know that the positions your farrier asks you to stand while he is working on your horse prepares you for your show season? Yup, the places you are instructed to position yourself while the judge is walking around you and your horse originate from safety precautions when holding a horse for the vet, the horseshoer, the chiropractor, etc.
So, if you visualize the reasoning behind where you need to stand when showing your horse at halter it may help you remember where to be when the pressure is on at the show. A couple of examples of where you should be standing while holding your horse for the shoer will help make this clear by pretending the shoer is the judge.
Where does your shoer have you stand while holding the lead when the foot is pulled forward to clinch or rasp flares from the hoof wall? If you stood on the same side the rope would be hanging in the shoer’s face and you would have a tendency to pull the horse’ face into the shoer’s space. If you stand a little to the front and a little to the opposite side, the farrier’s space is clear for work to be done and the shoer’s elbow won’t bump the horse’s nose.
When the farrier is working on the hind foot, he typically wants you to be on the same side, but up towards the head of the horse. Typically, the horse will stand better if the head is held straight or bent a little towards the shoer. If the horse acts up your tendency as a holder is to pull the lead thus pulling the nose in your direction. If you were standing on the opposite side and you pulled the head towards you the horse’s butt would move right into the shoer and his shoeing box. When you are on the same side the horse’s rear end will move away from the shoer. Same with the judge…you don’t want the judge to be in danger, it might reflect on your score!!
As you can begin to see the places where you stand while being judged actually aren’t there to try and foul you up but actually come from common sense safety and horse handling skills. Keep your farrier happy by standing in your show positions and get the top showmanship by applying the common sense rules of where your shoer has you stand.
This was just a simple, fun blog entry, because as you know it is springtime and who wants to be at a computer? Not me. I want to be under a horse or on top of a horse.
So, if you visualize the reasoning behind where you need to stand when showing your horse at halter it may help you remember where to be when the pressure is on at the show. A couple of examples of where you should be standing while holding your horse for the shoer will help make this clear by pretending the shoer is the judge.
Where does your shoer have you stand while holding the lead when the foot is pulled forward to clinch or rasp flares from the hoof wall? If you stood on the same side the rope would be hanging in the shoer’s face and you would have a tendency to pull the horse’ face into the shoer’s space. If you stand a little to the front and a little to the opposite side, the farrier’s space is clear for work to be done and the shoer’s elbow won’t bump the horse’s nose.
When the farrier is working on the hind foot, he typically wants you to be on the same side, but up towards the head of the horse. Typically, the horse will stand better if the head is held straight or bent a little towards the shoer. If the horse acts up your tendency as a holder is to pull the lead thus pulling the nose in your direction. If you were standing on the opposite side and you pulled the head towards you the horse’s butt would move right into the shoer and his shoeing box. When you are on the same side the horse’s rear end will move away from the shoer. Same with the judge…you don’t want the judge to be in danger, it might reflect on your score!!
As you can begin to see the places where you stand while being judged actually aren’t there to try and foul you up but actually come from common sense safety and horse handling skills. Keep your farrier happy by standing in your show positions and get the top showmanship by applying the common sense rules of where your shoer has you stand.
This was just a simple, fun blog entry, because as you know it is springtime and who wants to be at a computer? Not me. I want to be under a horse or on top of a horse.
Saturday, April 18, 2009
The Trim , the basis to good hoof care
The American Farriers Journal sent out a query to me and probably 100+ other farriers to answer a few questions about what we as individuals use as hoof guidelines to accomplish a proper trim. In past blogs I have touched on the importance of a good trim as the base to good hoof care and shoeing. I thought I would make a blog entry on this poll question, as well as, send it into the magazine.
Now most shoers I know don’t carry an x-ray or a radiograph machine with them so we can’t use what is inside the hoof to show us how to trim the hoof. However, once you learn more about the anatomy of the hoof, you learn there are certain outside structures that correlate with the inside structures, mainly the coffin bone, sensitive laminae. Individual shoers use different indicators to help accuire a proper trim.
I tend to use a combination of guidelines. But to begin with, I basically use the frog as an indicator as where to trim the heels and toe. So I first either need to be sure I have a trimmed frog and /or in cases where the horny (old & non-living) frog is not ready to slough off and protection is needed for type of use, I need to acquire an understanding of the size and placement the frog would it be trimmed. Without going into the anatomy in detail, let me say that the tip of a properly trimmed frog gives an indicator where the coffin bone placement. Also, the frog provides guidelines as to how the heels need to be trimmed. Often times trimming the bottom of the hoof to these indicators I end up with a proper angle for that horse. Which can be checked with other references when the horse is standing, such as, the slope of the shoulder.
I believe there are two types of balance when it comes to lateral balance. Which will be for discussion at another time…..One is stationary balance and the other is seen in the movement (landing). In short I will also, use the coronary band as an indicator of “problems” of misplaced pressure. And I use the landing of the foot to judge the final touch ups on a trim, mainly on crooked leg/hoof cases.
One other thought, as far as hoof landmarks to use in achieving a proper trim. I usually find any sand cracks (see past blog entry on cracks), especially at the back of the hoof, indicates imbalance between the front of the hoof and the back. (angle).
Now most shoers I know don’t carry an x-ray or a radiograph machine with them so we can’t use what is inside the hoof to show us how to trim the hoof. However, once you learn more about the anatomy of the hoof, you learn there are certain outside structures that correlate with the inside structures, mainly the coffin bone, sensitive laminae. Individual shoers use different indicators to help accuire a proper trim.
I tend to use a combination of guidelines. But to begin with, I basically use the frog as an indicator as where to trim the heels and toe. So I first either need to be sure I have a trimmed frog and /or in cases where the horny (old & non-living) frog is not ready to slough off and protection is needed for type of use, I need to acquire an understanding of the size and placement the frog would it be trimmed. Without going into the anatomy in detail, let me say that the tip of a properly trimmed frog gives an indicator where the coffin bone placement. Also, the frog provides guidelines as to how the heels need to be trimmed. Often times trimming the bottom of the hoof to these indicators I end up with a proper angle for that horse. Which can be checked with other references when the horse is standing, such as, the slope of the shoulder.
I believe there are two types of balance when it comes to lateral balance. Which will be for discussion at another time…..One is stationary balance and the other is seen in the movement (landing). In short I will also, use the coronary band as an indicator of “problems” of misplaced pressure. And I use the landing of the foot to judge the final touch ups on a trim, mainly on crooked leg/hoof cases.
One other thought, as far as hoof landmarks to use in achieving a proper trim. I usually find any sand cracks (see past blog entry on cracks), especially at the back of the hoof, indicates imbalance between the front of the hoof and the back. (angle).
Thursday, April 2, 2009
If The Shoe Fits Wear It
In the major scheme of things if the shoe-size fits wear it. The main concern when shoeing a horse is not particularly the size of the shoe, but properly trimming the foot then putting a shoe on that fits from the toe (or the desired breakover point) all the way to the heel buttress.
I think for many years some horse breeds wanted small hooves for a nicer look. And possibly various lameness arose from actually forcing the hoof to become small in appearance. Now, I believe the pendulum has swung in the opposite direction and people are determined to have the shoer put the biggest size shoe possible on the horse. When in reality a good shoe job, one that not only looks nice, but also promotes the wellness of the horse from a hoof standpoint (no pun intended!!) is no better than the trim.
Horseshoe manufacturers have unlimited types of shoes for the farrier to choose from. Which correlates with much discrepancy when sizing a shoe. Typically, the smaller the number the smaller the shoe and the more 0’s the smaller. i.e. 000 is smaller than 00 which is smaller than 0 which is smaller than a size 1. Sometimes a different style of shoe from the same company will have a different sizing number, yet in actuality be the same exact size. Thus, just from this reality it is important not to get hung up over the size of shoe your farrier is nailing on your horse.
I have had a number of horses in my clientele base over the years that I have actually shod with one size at one appointment and the next appointment ended up going to a bigger or smaller size. I don’t know if that is technically correct by others in my profession, but the truth is the truth. Each time I just tried to prepare the hooves correctly for that horse at that time and fit a shoe to my trim. Sometimes, if I have a horse that habitually loses a shoe I will try and evaluate my trim/angle/balance and by getting that correct I will end up putting a different shoe size on that doesn’t get pulled...sometimes it turns out to be a bigger size and sometimes a smaller. Other times the size difference comes about after working on neglected feet, a lame horse, or a change in the use of the horse by the rider.
If the shoe fits, stays on, doesn’t cause lameness, looks good, aids in performance --- wear it.
I think for many years some horse breeds wanted small hooves for a nicer look. And possibly various lameness arose from actually forcing the hoof to become small in appearance. Now, I believe the pendulum has swung in the opposite direction and people are determined to have the shoer put the biggest size shoe possible on the horse. When in reality a good shoe job, one that not only looks nice, but also promotes the wellness of the horse from a hoof standpoint (no pun intended!!) is no better than the trim.
Horseshoe manufacturers have unlimited types of shoes for the farrier to choose from. Which correlates with much discrepancy when sizing a shoe. Typically, the smaller the number the smaller the shoe and the more 0’s the smaller. i.e. 000 is smaller than 00 which is smaller than 0 which is smaller than a size 1. Sometimes a different style of shoe from the same company will have a different sizing number, yet in actuality be the same exact size. Thus, just from this reality it is important not to get hung up over the size of shoe your farrier is nailing on your horse.
I have had a number of horses in my clientele base over the years that I have actually shod with one size at one appointment and the next appointment ended up going to a bigger or smaller size. I don’t know if that is technically correct by others in my profession, but the truth is the truth. Each time I just tried to prepare the hooves correctly for that horse at that time and fit a shoe to my trim. Sometimes, if I have a horse that habitually loses a shoe I will try and evaluate my trim/angle/balance and by getting that correct I will end up putting a different shoe size on that doesn’t get pulled...sometimes it turns out to be a bigger size and sometimes a smaller. Other times the size difference comes about after working on neglected feet, a lame horse, or a change in the use of the horse by the rider.
If the shoe fits, stays on, doesn’t cause lameness, looks good, aids in performance --- wear it.
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Trimming hoof with founder
When confronted with a “neglected” chronic founder hoof, I really think the shoer needs to get aggressive and trim the hoof to look as normal as possible in size and shape. I think the “old school” technique is how the trim needs to be accomplished, but may need to be applied repeatedly during the trim session until the desired result is achieved. Basically, even though the toe, in severe cases, is up in the air the trim starts with trimming the heel. Because it is the heel that has typically grown long and drives under the horse, pushing the toe out and up. The frog may not have sloughed off so you will need to continue trimming the frog as well. Then trim the toe, which may require cutting or sawing the extra, out-of-proportion part off from the top. When I say get aggressive I mean, don’t think you have gone far enough and the hoof wall is still over, let’s say for safety reasons, 4 ½ inches long. Many people are worried about quicking the horse, but the quick doesn’t grow out with the sole, frog, wall, etc. (Like a dog’s toenail may) The blood capillaries stay close to the coffin bone, which doesn’t grow down either! It may rotate or drop, but it is still connected to the short pastern which is connected to the long pastern which is connected to the cannon bone, etc. I think if a person thinks of the whole anatomy and what a hoof should look like, they are more apt to get aggressive and trim the hoof enough to actually help the horse’s condition. The final part of the trim should be the removal of any toe flare.
Please see Feb 19th entry for review of terminology related to this topic.
Someday I would love to post some before and after pictures.
Please see Feb 19th entry for review of terminology related to this topic.
Someday I would love to post some before and after pictures.
Sunday, March 8, 2009
"Fake" Sole
It seems since moving to Nevada I have seen many more cases of horses with, what I call, “fake sole”. I think it may be due to the sandy conditions, but it could be any one of a variety of reasons.
What I call “fake sole” is when the horny (or dead) sole does not slough off and takes on the appearance of a sole near the quick or live sole. Meaning it is solid and shiny, etc. The frog can even look healthy and solid. In other words to the untrained eye it seems like the hoof (from the stand point of sole appearance) has been trimmed to its proper depth. If left unattended this foot will grow out of balance. Usually the unbalance properties are in the form of a longer than normal hoof wall. (Did you know that even on Draft horses, the length of the hoof wall from the coronary band down the front of the wall to the ground at the toe usually doesn’t exceed 41/2 inches? And typically on riding horses it ranges from 3 to 4 inches?)
A shoer needs to evaluate the hoof as a whole and get to the true “bottom”, even though it may seem that to go further in paring out the sole would surely result in quicking the sole. I know, I get hesitant even though I am confident I need to trim more. No shoer wants to go too deep and get blood. This is not good for the horse or for securing cliental. But you have to go the distance that the horse needs or again the hoof will start to distort from its true balance.
I will list some of the things I look for to determine if I am dealing with a fake sole and need to trim more off.
· The hoof is just too long even though the sole looks like it can’t be trimmed anymore.
· If you use the apex of the frog as a guideline for the positioning of the toe breakover point, and you eye ball that things are in proportion and the frog looks clean and intact, but it blends into the sole. It is probably stretched and not in proportion with the true frog.
· As you pare away the sole look for any dark fissures especially around the bars. Usually if you start paring these out you will notice some flaking of the sole and realize it can come out.
· Are the commissures real deep? You can usually nip out the bars and find the “bottom”.
Like I said, even though I realize something is not right it is still scary to start removing sole, bars, and wall when things look so solid. But if the farrier constantly reminds himself what a properly trimmed foot is suppose to look like and, moreover, considers the anatomy of the hoof the shoer can have the confidence to trim the hoof to its proper depth. Don’t worry about being slow and cautious. Sometimes it is better to be safe than sorry, so if you can’t get yourself to go where you think it should be try and trim the horse again in less than 6 weeks and maybe some of these signs will start showing themselves more clearly.
Again, these are just some of my thoughts I am journaling on this blog mainly for my own record, but if a shoer or horse owner finds this site I hope they will enjoy some of these essays.
What I call “fake sole” is when the horny (or dead) sole does not slough off and takes on the appearance of a sole near the quick or live sole. Meaning it is solid and shiny, etc. The frog can even look healthy and solid. In other words to the untrained eye it seems like the hoof (from the stand point of sole appearance) has been trimmed to its proper depth. If left unattended this foot will grow out of balance. Usually the unbalance properties are in the form of a longer than normal hoof wall. (Did you know that even on Draft horses, the length of the hoof wall from the coronary band down the front of the wall to the ground at the toe usually doesn’t exceed 41/2 inches? And typically on riding horses it ranges from 3 to 4 inches?)
A shoer needs to evaluate the hoof as a whole and get to the true “bottom”, even though it may seem that to go further in paring out the sole would surely result in quicking the sole. I know, I get hesitant even though I am confident I need to trim more. No shoer wants to go too deep and get blood. This is not good for the horse or for securing cliental. But you have to go the distance that the horse needs or again the hoof will start to distort from its true balance.
I will list some of the things I look for to determine if I am dealing with a fake sole and need to trim more off.
· The hoof is just too long even though the sole looks like it can’t be trimmed anymore.
· If you use the apex of the frog as a guideline for the positioning of the toe breakover point, and you eye ball that things are in proportion and the frog looks clean and intact, but it blends into the sole. It is probably stretched and not in proportion with the true frog.
· As you pare away the sole look for any dark fissures especially around the bars. Usually if you start paring these out you will notice some flaking of the sole and realize it can come out.
· Are the commissures real deep? You can usually nip out the bars and find the “bottom”.
Like I said, even though I realize something is not right it is still scary to start removing sole, bars, and wall when things look so solid. But if the farrier constantly reminds himself what a properly trimmed foot is suppose to look like and, moreover, considers the anatomy of the hoof the shoer can have the confidence to trim the hoof to its proper depth. Don’t worry about being slow and cautious. Sometimes it is better to be safe than sorry, so if you can’t get yourself to go where you think it should be try and trim the horse again in less than 6 weeks and maybe some of these signs will start showing themselves more clearly.
Again, these are just some of my thoughts I am journaling on this blog mainly for my own record, but if a shoer or horse owner finds this site I hope they will enjoy some of these essays.
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Hoof Cracks
As I was exploring the possibility of getting a blog link from the Western Horseman web page to this blog site (which was a success) I ran across the forums they had running and one person had a question on hoof cracks. Now my favorite horse to work on is a horse that’s used and is sound, then if I had an expertise I would think it would be working on laminitic horses, and I’ve had quite a bit of success restoring cracked hooves. Once again in this blog I want to simply define terms describing cracks, which will help in determining the protocol to apply in order to successfully (if possible) heal the cracked hooves.
Toe, quarter, heel, bar cracks are terms used to define the location
Superficial indicates that the crack is not deep into sensitive structures and causes no pain or lameness issues. Typically there is no movement (opening or closing) of the crack when defining a crack as superficial.
Deep defines the crack as one that reaches all the way to the sensitive structures causing different degrees of pain/lameness. Cracks can be deep and have no bleeding. It is important to note if the crack widens (or closes) upon weight or non-weight bearing positions.
Sand Crack describes that the crack originates from the coronary band.
Grass Crack describes that the crack originates from the ground.
Also, the terms horizontal and vertical are key terms to use when defining a crack to someone who is not present.
Each properly defined crack will lend itself to various prognoses. In any further blog entries about what a shoer may do to help heal cracks this entry will be a good reference of terms used.
Toe, quarter, heel, bar cracks are terms used to define the location
Superficial indicates that the crack is not deep into sensitive structures and causes no pain or lameness issues. Typically there is no movement (opening or closing) of the crack when defining a crack as superficial.
Deep defines the crack as one that reaches all the way to the sensitive structures causing different degrees of pain/lameness. Cracks can be deep and have no bleeding. It is important to note if the crack widens (or closes) upon weight or non-weight bearing positions.
Sand Crack describes that the crack originates from the coronary band.
Grass Crack describes that the crack originates from the ground.
Also, the terms horizontal and vertical are key terms to use when defining a crack to someone who is not present.
Each properly defined crack will lend itself to various prognoses. In any further blog entries about what a shoer may do to help heal cracks this entry will be a good reference of terms used.
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Laminitis and Founder
There really is a great deal to say about laminitis and founder. For this blog session I will give a simple definition / difference in the terms.
Laminitis is basically any disruption of the lamina (the hoof structure which makes up the observable white line). Lameness in the horse may or may not take place depending on the severity of this disruption. However if the probable cause is detected and is known to perpetrate severe laminitis the protocol would be to support the hoof structures with pathological techniques to ward off lameness before the lameness even becomes apparent. Typically, laminitis goes undetected until lameness occurs. It is at this acute stage that methods can be applied to remedy the lameness and have the best prognosis of recovery.
Founder should be a term used when there have been permanent structure changes (i.e. rotation of coffin bone) and the lameness progresses to chronic lameness. Shoeing methods can be applied to help the horse find comfort, but the prognosis for total soundness is uncommon, though not impossible.
FYI: It has been observed that during the months of February and March laminitis can be intensified triggered from systemic problems.
Laminitis is basically any disruption of the lamina (the hoof structure which makes up the observable white line). Lameness in the horse may or may not take place depending on the severity of this disruption. However if the probable cause is detected and is known to perpetrate severe laminitis the protocol would be to support the hoof structures with pathological techniques to ward off lameness before the lameness even becomes apparent. Typically, laminitis goes undetected until lameness occurs. It is at this acute stage that methods can be applied to remedy the lameness and have the best prognosis of recovery.
Founder should be a term used when there have been permanent structure changes (i.e. rotation of coffin bone) and the lameness progresses to chronic lameness. Shoeing methods can be applied to help the horse find comfort, but the prognosis for total soundness is uncommon, though not impossible.
FYI: It has been observed that during the months of February and March laminitis can be intensified triggered from systemic problems.
Friday, February 6, 2009
Horse color and disposition
If ever anyone had a pasture full of horses of various colors and genders and they told me, “one of those horses always follows me around, is good at untying knots, works the gate latch until it opens, investigates any bucket or sack that is out in the pasture, and is good to shoe.” I would always pick it to be the Bay and more specifically, the Bay Gelding.
My theory: the bay gene carries these inquisitive, and gentle dispositions.
After working as a farrier over the last 30 years with temporary work as wrangler, vet tech, and colt starter I’ve observed 1000’s of horses and scrutinized each horse’s attitude out of necessity. This is just one of my theories I’ve come up with while working by myself under and on top of horses seeking various avenues of thoughtful entertainment over the years!
If anyone reads this I hope you enjoyed.
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Farrier, Horse owner, Veterinarian protocol (1)
Every once in awhile throughout the years I have received phone calls from horse owners or even veterinarians who feel a horse has become lame, and maybe even a little laminitic (or course they say founder, which I will probably “blog” about at a later date) because of a shoer trimming the hooves too short. “Yes”, I say, “ I can probably help the horse, but have you called the shoer who did the work?” …. I always figured it was only right to do this. I would like to emphasize this protocol to horse owners and vets, because Now it has happened in reverse!
Here’s the long and short of it…. I have been a practicing farrier for over 30 years. Due to family situation I’ve been moved to a new state (Nevada) so in my latter years of running a shoeing business I am having to re-build clientele and am the “new guy (gal) on the block”.
Having done some shoeing and trim work for some new clients who seemed pleased with my work I returned after a couple months to pull shoes on the shod horse and re-trim the others. When the horses were due again I called to see if they wanted me to schedule them and I was told that one horse had become a little sore the day after I was there and they had called the vet when the horse seemed to get worse and the vet thought it needed some special shoeing and they called in another shoer. And I was told, it cost them plenty!! You see, I am very passionate about my occupation so I was very distraught and apologized just in case it WAS something I had done, and then very sincerely mentioned how I wish they would’ve called me, because I would have been made it a priority to make things right and feel I could’ve applied shoeing or trimming techniques to have made the horse sound. I even feel the vet should have checked into the abilities/schooling of the shoer who did the initial work. Why? Because:
1. The people probably could’ve saved money.
2. the veterinary would have met another shoer who could shoe according to prescription or even introduced the vet to a different concept.
3. and the shoer (me, in this case) could have added this to my learning experience.
4. and just maybe I would have had a better grasp if I really did do something wrong.
Like I’ve indicated, I love shoeing, and horses, and (most of) my customers. I not only have the years of experience. But have attended clinics/seminars to continue my skill and knowledge. This incident really hit home and I will continue to ask, “ Did you call the shoer who did the initial work?”
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Horses may react different for shoer--theory
When I ask a client about a new young colt, I will hear “Oh, I can pick up their feet”, however, when I start trimming it wants to pull away and get excited. My theory is that when the customer works with the colt they may stand next to the colt and pick the foot up with one hand and can gradually hold the foot for longer periods of time, but when I put the front foot between my legs the horse feels more trapped and needs to escape. Horses are flight animals and until they learn to trust us they like having the freedom to use their feet to run away. If they haven’t learned to trust us then they can feel uneasy when their foot is captured between the legs of the shoer. I think that is why I often find young horses are more tolerant to having their hind hooves worked on compared to the font. Because resting it on the shoer’s legs holds the hind leg it is not under the same restraint as when holding the front leg. I want to encourage people to make sure when working with their young horses to put the horse through all the positions a horseshoer works when trimming and shoeing. Not only will this help the farrier, but I am convinced, when a horse is confident with restraints to his feet and legs he will show more trust throughout his training. Please see my article, From the Ground Up, in the March/April 2008 Eclectic Horseman magazine.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
first entry on a rainy day
There is more work to the horseshoeing profession than just shoeing horses. Yet, at times I wish shoeing was all I had to do in this line of work. Today, I had no horses to get under and I was glad it was rainy as I needed to work on finishing up my records of income and expenditures for 2008 income tax purposes. And then, to explore the world at my fingertips, I finally set up this blog. Like most horseshoers I have my opinions, advise, and way of doing things and probably will express these through this blog as the days and years go by.
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