Hoof growth often becomes a common topic while I am working under a horse. How fast? How much? And especially coming into winter, many people ask if it is true that hoof growth slows during the winter months. Personally, I think there are other factors involved that make it appear as though the hoof is growing slower.
But first let me mention a few ideas concerning hoof growth in general. A typical hoof will grow about an inch every 3 – 4 months. (That’s typically a new hoof per year) Of course, if a horse is barefoot and on a hard surface this amount of growth is normally not observed because it is wearing off as it grows. “They” say the more a horse is exercised the faster the hoof will tend to grow. This theory is based on the idea that the frog is put into play and pumps blood and increases the growth. Over the years I have observed an increase in hoof growth in the fall. My theory is that the horse is growing a winter coat and since the hair and hoof seem to be related in nutrition (i.e. what is good for the hair coat is good for the hoof), whatever tells the horse to grow more hair in preparation for winter is, at the same time, growing more hoof. I would be interested to hear if others think this is true and if in the warmer climates the hoof tends to have no significant hoof growth change at any time.
As far as people thinking the horse hoof grows slower in the winter, I think, it is a little bit of a misconception. Possibly: 1) the horse is not being used as much, 2) the shoes are pulled and the ground is hard thus wearing the hoof as it grows, and 3) the last time the horse was trimmed in the fall there was an excess amount of growth to compare to when trimming the horse the next time during the winter.
Keep in mind, I am just a dumb shoer, most of my blogs consist of thoughts I’ve had over the 25+ years of working with my head below my butt…and now for my theory about Global Warming…….
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Monday, September 7, 2009
The "N" word in horse lameness
Well, as per usual spending much time being creative at the computer during the summer months has proved next to impossible. Here is a little thought on an age old hoof lameness.
Over the years the “N”–word has been changed-up a little, almost like the number of methods available to shoe for this lameness. There has always been an array of techniques with more added as the pathology is re-visited. I am talking about navicular, which now tends to be termed navicular-syndrome, heel pain, or anything but straight navicular. Which is all fine and dandy. My main concern is the method of shoeing or trimming to aid in the comfort or healing of the horse.
The other day I had a client who’s vet injected his horse in the navicular area and said she would have her shoer come do some corrective shoeing on the horse. I was going to be there to trim another horse and told the owner I could probably do whatever she recommended. Well, when I got there he said the vet just said to do what I normally do for a navicular horse…. In my lifetime of shoeing there has been no one “normal” way to shoe a horse with navicular. I have reversed a shoe, raised heels with pads and/or swelled heels, applied bar shoes, rolled toes, squared toes, rocker toes, EDSS, and combinations of any of the above. Usually the method applied was at the discretion of the vet.
In this particular case I was at a little bit of a loss. Since I am relatively new to the area with no real repute with any particular vet, I was put in a hard place. But when I did my questioning and the few procedures I know to check for severity and found very little lameness I used the KISS method. And kept it plain and simple. Though I really like the reverse shoe method I kept it all very uncomplicated and just broadened the toe and rolled it, bringing the breakover back and supported the heels with a little extra heel length. (Some would call this a natural balance shoe, others would cringe to use that term though whatever the term it is the same mechanism).
Well it made me think how many different approaches I have used over the years for navicular, navicular-syndrome, heel pain type problems. And gave me something to document on my blog.
Over the years the “N”–word has been changed-up a little, almost like the number of methods available to shoe for this lameness. There has always been an array of techniques with more added as the pathology is re-visited. I am talking about navicular, which now tends to be termed navicular-syndrome, heel pain, or anything but straight navicular. Which is all fine and dandy. My main concern is the method of shoeing or trimming to aid in the comfort or healing of the horse.
The other day I had a client who’s vet injected his horse in the navicular area and said she would have her shoer come do some corrective shoeing on the horse. I was going to be there to trim another horse and told the owner I could probably do whatever she recommended. Well, when I got there he said the vet just said to do what I normally do for a navicular horse…. In my lifetime of shoeing there has been no one “normal” way to shoe a horse with navicular. I have reversed a shoe, raised heels with pads and/or swelled heels, applied bar shoes, rolled toes, squared toes, rocker toes, EDSS, and combinations of any of the above. Usually the method applied was at the discretion of the vet.
In this particular case I was at a little bit of a loss. Since I am relatively new to the area with no real repute with any particular vet, I was put in a hard place. But when I did my questioning and the few procedures I know to check for severity and found very little lameness I used the KISS method. And kept it plain and simple. Though I really like the reverse shoe method I kept it all very uncomplicated and just broadened the toe and rolled it, bringing the breakover back and supported the heels with a little extra heel length. (Some would call this a natural balance shoe, others would cringe to use that term though whatever the term it is the same mechanism).
Well it made me think how many different approaches I have used over the years for navicular, navicular-syndrome, heel pain type problems. And gave me something to document on my blog.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Too Hot to Trot (type)
Summer here really hasn't been too hot, until the last couple of weeks. Shoeing has been busy and I haven't taken the time to post this month. I'd like to keep a flow going so thought I would post something on this last day of July. So I figured it could be about working in the heat.
I feel fortunate that all the places I've lived and shod horses have been in dry climates. Shade works wonders while working on a hot day. Shade from trees, horse trailers, houses, barns, and quite frankly even the horse itself definitely makes things a "shade" cooler here in the West. Yep, I have been known to ask the horse holder to move the horse around so the side I am working on is in the shade! Often times I turn down the offer to go inside a three-sided shed to get away from the sun. If there is no circulation it can feel hotter than outside under the sun where maybe you can feel the slightest breeze.
I remember some clients I had that also showed beef cattle at the local fair and the steers would be in an enclosed stall with cooler fans going and I would be out in the hot corral shoeing!!
I love the clients that offer me a cold drink!
I've learned not to compoain when it's hot. I always say that "if it isn't too hot, it's too cold, and if it isn't too cold the bugs are out, and if the bugs aren't out and it's not too cold, the horses are shedding hair all over me. And if none of the above are true it must be fall and that is the best season, so why complain."
gotta love shoe'n!!
I feel fortunate that all the places I've lived and shod horses have been in dry climates. Shade works wonders while working on a hot day. Shade from trees, horse trailers, houses, barns, and quite frankly even the horse itself definitely makes things a "shade" cooler here in the West. Yep, I have been known to ask the horse holder to move the horse around so the side I am working on is in the shade! Often times I turn down the offer to go inside a three-sided shed to get away from the sun. If there is no circulation it can feel hotter than outside under the sun where maybe you can feel the slightest breeze.
I remember some clients I had that also showed beef cattle at the local fair and the steers would be in an enclosed stall with cooler fans going and I would be out in the hot corral shoeing!!
I love the clients that offer me a cold drink!
I've learned not to compoain when it's hot. I always say that "if it isn't too hot, it's too cold, and if it isn't too cold the bugs are out, and if the bugs aren't out and it's not too cold, the horses are shedding hair all over me. And if none of the above are true it must be fall and that is the best season, so why complain."
gotta love shoe'n!!
Friday, June 19, 2009
In reference to a June 2009Western Horseman article about the ethics of showing young horses, I’d like to make a comment from the hoof standpoint (no pun intended :).
Many times the soundness or lameness of the horse originates from the hoof. Thus when discussing the training and competing of young horses I believe it is essential to consider proper hoof care and soundness.
I have recently been doing a lot of trimming at a cutting horse barn of a nationally acclaimed cutting horse trainer. I say trimming for two reasons. First, they already have a shoer who has been with them for a number of years. Since I am new to the area and trying to re-build a clientele base, I introduced myself to this trainer and have since taken over trimming horses that the shoer just isn’t getting scheduled. Second, he and his wife believe that the young horses going through their first year of training don’t really need shoes because they are being ridden in a nice sandy arena and getting proper nutrition and exercise and trimmed on a regular basis. I believe the horses they raise and have kept barefoot into the horses three year old year have good, sound, as well as, healthy size (compared to many cutting horses) feet. Thus, in my opinion, less lameness issues tend to arise as these youngsters are pushed through the training they need to win at the National level. If a colt’s welfare is to remain the first priority, and their minds can take the pressure then once again reassess the old adage “no hoof, no horse”.
Many times the soundness or lameness of the horse originates from the hoof. Thus when discussing the training and competing of young horses I believe it is essential to consider proper hoof care and soundness.
I have recently been doing a lot of trimming at a cutting horse barn of a nationally acclaimed cutting horse trainer. I say trimming for two reasons. First, they already have a shoer who has been with them for a number of years. Since I am new to the area and trying to re-build a clientele base, I introduced myself to this trainer and have since taken over trimming horses that the shoer just isn’t getting scheduled. Second, he and his wife believe that the young horses going through their first year of training don’t really need shoes because they are being ridden in a nice sandy arena and getting proper nutrition and exercise and trimmed on a regular basis. I believe the horses they raise and have kept barefoot into the horses three year old year have good, sound, as well as, healthy size (compared to many cutting horses) feet. Thus, in my opinion, less lameness issues tend to arise as these youngsters are pushed through the training they need to win at the National level. If a colt’s welfare is to remain the first priority, and their minds can take the pressure then once again reassess the old adage “no hoof, no horse”.
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Correct Horse Handling Prepares for Show Season
Did you know that the positions your farrier asks you to stand while he is working on your horse prepares you for your show season? Yup, the places you are instructed to position yourself while the judge is walking around you and your horse originate from safety precautions when holding a horse for the vet, the horseshoer, the chiropractor, etc.
So, if you visualize the reasoning behind where you need to stand when showing your horse at halter it may help you remember where to be when the pressure is on at the show. A couple of examples of where you should be standing while holding your horse for the shoer will help make this clear by pretending the shoer is the judge.
Where does your shoer have you stand while holding the lead when the foot is pulled forward to clinch or rasp flares from the hoof wall? If you stood on the same side the rope would be hanging in the shoer’s face and you would have a tendency to pull the horse’ face into the shoer’s space. If you stand a little to the front and a little to the opposite side, the farrier’s space is clear for work to be done and the shoer’s elbow won’t bump the horse’s nose.
When the farrier is working on the hind foot, he typically wants you to be on the same side, but up towards the head of the horse. Typically, the horse will stand better if the head is held straight or bent a little towards the shoer. If the horse acts up your tendency as a holder is to pull the lead thus pulling the nose in your direction. If you were standing on the opposite side and you pulled the head towards you the horse’s butt would move right into the shoer and his shoeing box. When you are on the same side the horse’s rear end will move away from the shoer. Same with the judge…you don’t want the judge to be in danger, it might reflect on your score!!
As you can begin to see the places where you stand while being judged actually aren’t there to try and foul you up but actually come from common sense safety and horse handling skills. Keep your farrier happy by standing in your show positions and get the top showmanship by applying the common sense rules of where your shoer has you stand.
This was just a simple, fun blog entry, because as you know it is springtime and who wants to be at a computer? Not me. I want to be under a horse or on top of a horse.
So, if you visualize the reasoning behind where you need to stand when showing your horse at halter it may help you remember where to be when the pressure is on at the show. A couple of examples of where you should be standing while holding your horse for the shoer will help make this clear by pretending the shoer is the judge.
Where does your shoer have you stand while holding the lead when the foot is pulled forward to clinch or rasp flares from the hoof wall? If you stood on the same side the rope would be hanging in the shoer’s face and you would have a tendency to pull the horse’ face into the shoer’s space. If you stand a little to the front and a little to the opposite side, the farrier’s space is clear for work to be done and the shoer’s elbow won’t bump the horse’s nose.
When the farrier is working on the hind foot, he typically wants you to be on the same side, but up towards the head of the horse. Typically, the horse will stand better if the head is held straight or bent a little towards the shoer. If the horse acts up your tendency as a holder is to pull the lead thus pulling the nose in your direction. If you were standing on the opposite side and you pulled the head towards you the horse’s butt would move right into the shoer and his shoeing box. When you are on the same side the horse’s rear end will move away from the shoer. Same with the judge…you don’t want the judge to be in danger, it might reflect on your score!!
As you can begin to see the places where you stand while being judged actually aren’t there to try and foul you up but actually come from common sense safety and horse handling skills. Keep your farrier happy by standing in your show positions and get the top showmanship by applying the common sense rules of where your shoer has you stand.
This was just a simple, fun blog entry, because as you know it is springtime and who wants to be at a computer? Not me. I want to be under a horse or on top of a horse.
Saturday, April 18, 2009
The Trim , the basis to good hoof care
The American Farriers Journal sent out a query to me and probably 100+ other farriers to answer a few questions about what we as individuals use as hoof guidelines to accomplish a proper trim. In past blogs I have touched on the importance of a good trim as the base to good hoof care and shoeing. I thought I would make a blog entry on this poll question, as well as, send it into the magazine.
Now most shoers I know don’t carry an x-ray or a radiograph machine with them so we can’t use what is inside the hoof to show us how to trim the hoof. However, once you learn more about the anatomy of the hoof, you learn there are certain outside structures that correlate with the inside structures, mainly the coffin bone, sensitive laminae. Individual shoers use different indicators to help accuire a proper trim.
I tend to use a combination of guidelines. But to begin with, I basically use the frog as an indicator as where to trim the heels and toe. So I first either need to be sure I have a trimmed frog and /or in cases where the horny (old & non-living) frog is not ready to slough off and protection is needed for type of use, I need to acquire an understanding of the size and placement the frog would it be trimmed. Without going into the anatomy in detail, let me say that the tip of a properly trimmed frog gives an indicator where the coffin bone placement. Also, the frog provides guidelines as to how the heels need to be trimmed. Often times trimming the bottom of the hoof to these indicators I end up with a proper angle for that horse. Which can be checked with other references when the horse is standing, such as, the slope of the shoulder.
I believe there are two types of balance when it comes to lateral balance. Which will be for discussion at another time…..One is stationary balance and the other is seen in the movement (landing). In short I will also, use the coronary band as an indicator of “problems” of misplaced pressure. And I use the landing of the foot to judge the final touch ups on a trim, mainly on crooked leg/hoof cases.
One other thought, as far as hoof landmarks to use in achieving a proper trim. I usually find any sand cracks (see past blog entry on cracks), especially at the back of the hoof, indicates imbalance between the front of the hoof and the back. (angle).
Now most shoers I know don’t carry an x-ray or a radiograph machine with them so we can’t use what is inside the hoof to show us how to trim the hoof. However, once you learn more about the anatomy of the hoof, you learn there are certain outside structures that correlate with the inside structures, mainly the coffin bone, sensitive laminae. Individual shoers use different indicators to help accuire a proper trim.
I tend to use a combination of guidelines. But to begin with, I basically use the frog as an indicator as where to trim the heels and toe. So I first either need to be sure I have a trimmed frog and /or in cases where the horny (old & non-living) frog is not ready to slough off and protection is needed for type of use, I need to acquire an understanding of the size and placement the frog would it be trimmed. Without going into the anatomy in detail, let me say that the tip of a properly trimmed frog gives an indicator where the coffin bone placement. Also, the frog provides guidelines as to how the heels need to be trimmed. Often times trimming the bottom of the hoof to these indicators I end up with a proper angle for that horse. Which can be checked with other references when the horse is standing, such as, the slope of the shoulder.
I believe there are two types of balance when it comes to lateral balance. Which will be for discussion at another time…..One is stationary balance and the other is seen in the movement (landing). In short I will also, use the coronary band as an indicator of “problems” of misplaced pressure. And I use the landing of the foot to judge the final touch ups on a trim, mainly on crooked leg/hoof cases.
One other thought, as far as hoof landmarks to use in achieving a proper trim. I usually find any sand cracks (see past blog entry on cracks), especially at the back of the hoof, indicates imbalance between the front of the hoof and the back. (angle).
Thursday, April 2, 2009
If The Shoe Fits Wear It
In the major scheme of things if the shoe-size fits wear it. The main concern when shoeing a horse is not particularly the size of the shoe, but properly trimming the foot then putting a shoe on that fits from the toe (or the desired breakover point) all the way to the heel buttress.
I think for many years some horse breeds wanted small hooves for a nicer look. And possibly various lameness arose from actually forcing the hoof to become small in appearance. Now, I believe the pendulum has swung in the opposite direction and people are determined to have the shoer put the biggest size shoe possible on the horse. When in reality a good shoe job, one that not only looks nice, but also promotes the wellness of the horse from a hoof standpoint (no pun intended!!) is no better than the trim.
Horseshoe manufacturers have unlimited types of shoes for the farrier to choose from. Which correlates with much discrepancy when sizing a shoe. Typically, the smaller the number the smaller the shoe and the more 0’s the smaller. i.e. 000 is smaller than 00 which is smaller than 0 which is smaller than a size 1. Sometimes a different style of shoe from the same company will have a different sizing number, yet in actuality be the same exact size. Thus, just from this reality it is important not to get hung up over the size of shoe your farrier is nailing on your horse.
I have had a number of horses in my clientele base over the years that I have actually shod with one size at one appointment and the next appointment ended up going to a bigger or smaller size. I don’t know if that is technically correct by others in my profession, but the truth is the truth. Each time I just tried to prepare the hooves correctly for that horse at that time and fit a shoe to my trim. Sometimes, if I have a horse that habitually loses a shoe I will try and evaluate my trim/angle/balance and by getting that correct I will end up putting a different shoe size on that doesn’t get pulled...sometimes it turns out to be a bigger size and sometimes a smaller. Other times the size difference comes about after working on neglected feet, a lame horse, or a change in the use of the horse by the rider.
If the shoe fits, stays on, doesn’t cause lameness, looks good, aids in performance --- wear it.
I think for many years some horse breeds wanted small hooves for a nicer look. And possibly various lameness arose from actually forcing the hoof to become small in appearance. Now, I believe the pendulum has swung in the opposite direction and people are determined to have the shoer put the biggest size shoe possible on the horse. When in reality a good shoe job, one that not only looks nice, but also promotes the wellness of the horse from a hoof standpoint (no pun intended!!) is no better than the trim.
Horseshoe manufacturers have unlimited types of shoes for the farrier to choose from. Which correlates with much discrepancy when sizing a shoe. Typically, the smaller the number the smaller the shoe and the more 0’s the smaller. i.e. 000 is smaller than 00 which is smaller than 0 which is smaller than a size 1. Sometimes a different style of shoe from the same company will have a different sizing number, yet in actuality be the same exact size. Thus, just from this reality it is important not to get hung up over the size of shoe your farrier is nailing on your horse.
I have had a number of horses in my clientele base over the years that I have actually shod with one size at one appointment and the next appointment ended up going to a bigger or smaller size. I don’t know if that is technically correct by others in my profession, but the truth is the truth. Each time I just tried to prepare the hooves correctly for that horse at that time and fit a shoe to my trim. Sometimes, if I have a horse that habitually loses a shoe I will try and evaluate my trim/angle/balance and by getting that correct I will end up putting a different shoe size on that doesn’t get pulled...sometimes it turns out to be a bigger size and sometimes a smaller. Other times the size difference comes about after working on neglected feet, a lame horse, or a change in the use of the horse by the rider.
If the shoe fits, stays on, doesn’t cause lameness, looks good, aids in performance --- wear it.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
