Summer here really hasn't been too hot, until the last couple of weeks. Shoeing has been busy and I haven't taken the time to post this month. I'd like to keep a flow going so thought I would post something on this last day of July. So I figured it could be about working in the heat.
I feel fortunate that all the places I've lived and shod horses have been in dry climates. Shade works wonders while working on a hot day. Shade from trees, horse trailers, houses, barns, and quite frankly even the horse itself definitely makes things a "shade" cooler here in the West. Yep, I have been known to ask the horse holder to move the horse around so the side I am working on is in the shade! Often times I turn down the offer to go inside a three-sided shed to get away from the sun. If there is no circulation it can feel hotter than outside under the sun where maybe you can feel the slightest breeze.
I remember some clients I had that also showed beef cattle at the local fair and the steers would be in an enclosed stall with cooler fans going and I would be out in the hot corral shoeing!!
I love the clients that offer me a cold drink!
I've learned not to compoain when it's hot. I always say that "if it isn't too hot, it's too cold, and if it isn't too cold the bugs are out, and if the bugs aren't out and it's not too cold, the horses are shedding hair all over me. And if none of the above are true it must be fall and that is the best season, so why complain."
gotta love shoe'n!!
Friday, July 31, 2009
Friday, June 19, 2009
In reference to a June 2009Western Horseman article about the ethics of showing young horses, I’d like to make a comment from the hoof standpoint (no pun intended :).
Many times the soundness or lameness of the horse originates from the hoof. Thus when discussing the training and competing of young horses I believe it is essential to consider proper hoof care and soundness.
I have recently been doing a lot of trimming at a cutting horse barn of a nationally acclaimed cutting horse trainer. I say trimming for two reasons. First, they already have a shoer who has been with them for a number of years. Since I am new to the area and trying to re-build a clientele base, I introduced myself to this trainer and have since taken over trimming horses that the shoer just isn’t getting scheduled. Second, he and his wife believe that the young horses going through their first year of training don’t really need shoes because they are being ridden in a nice sandy arena and getting proper nutrition and exercise and trimmed on a regular basis. I believe the horses they raise and have kept barefoot into the horses three year old year have good, sound, as well as, healthy size (compared to many cutting horses) feet. Thus, in my opinion, less lameness issues tend to arise as these youngsters are pushed through the training they need to win at the National level. If a colt’s welfare is to remain the first priority, and their minds can take the pressure then once again reassess the old adage “no hoof, no horse”.
Many times the soundness or lameness of the horse originates from the hoof. Thus when discussing the training and competing of young horses I believe it is essential to consider proper hoof care and soundness.
I have recently been doing a lot of trimming at a cutting horse barn of a nationally acclaimed cutting horse trainer. I say trimming for two reasons. First, they already have a shoer who has been with them for a number of years. Since I am new to the area and trying to re-build a clientele base, I introduced myself to this trainer and have since taken over trimming horses that the shoer just isn’t getting scheduled. Second, he and his wife believe that the young horses going through their first year of training don’t really need shoes because they are being ridden in a nice sandy arena and getting proper nutrition and exercise and trimmed on a regular basis. I believe the horses they raise and have kept barefoot into the horses three year old year have good, sound, as well as, healthy size (compared to many cutting horses) feet. Thus, in my opinion, less lameness issues tend to arise as these youngsters are pushed through the training they need to win at the National level. If a colt’s welfare is to remain the first priority, and their minds can take the pressure then once again reassess the old adage “no hoof, no horse”.
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Correct Horse Handling Prepares for Show Season
Did you know that the positions your farrier asks you to stand while he is working on your horse prepares you for your show season? Yup, the places you are instructed to position yourself while the judge is walking around you and your horse originate from safety precautions when holding a horse for the vet, the horseshoer, the chiropractor, etc.
So, if you visualize the reasoning behind where you need to stand when showing your horse at halter it may help you remember where to be when the pressure is on at the show. A couple of examples of where you should be standing while holding your horse for the shoer will help make this clear by pretending the shoer is the judge.
Where does your shoer have you stand while holding the lead when the foot is pulled forward to clinch or rasp flares from the hoof wall? If you stood on the same side the rope would be hanging in the shoer’s face and you would have a tendency to pull the horse’ face into the shoer’s space. If you stand a little to the front and a little to the opposite side, the farrier’s space is clear for work to be done and the shoer’s elbow won’t bump the horse’s nose.
When the farrier is working on the hind foot, he typically wants you to be on the same side, but up towards the head of the horse. Typically, the horse will stand better if the head is held straight or bent a little towards the shoer. If the horse acts up your tendency as a holder is to pull the lead thus pulling the nose in your direction. If you were standing on the opposite side and you pulled the head towards you the horse’s butt would move right into the shoer and his shoeing box. When you are on the same side the horse’s rear end will move away from the shoer. Same with the judge…you don’t want the judge to be in danger, it might reflect on your score!!
As you can begin to see the places where you stand while being judged actually aren’t there to try and foul you up but actually come from common sense safety and horse handling skills. Keep your farrier happy by standing in your show positions and get the top showmanship by applying the common sense rules of where your shoer has you stand.
This was just a simple, fun blog entry, because as you know it is springtime and who wants to be at a computer? Not me. I want to be under a horse or on top of a horse.
So, if you visualize the reasoning behind where you need to stand when showing your horse at halter it may help you remember where to be when the pressure is on at the show. A couple of examples of where you should be standing while holding your horse for the shoer will help make this clear by pretending the shoer is the judge.
Where does your shoer have you stand while holding the lead when the foot is pulled forward to clinch or rasp flares from the hoof wall? If you stood on the same side the rope would be hanging in the shoer’s face and you would have a tendency to pull the horse’ face into the shoer’s space. If you stand a little to the front and a little to the opposite side, the farrier’s space is clear for work to be done and the shoer’s elbow won’t bump the horse’s nose.
When the farrier is working on the hind foot, he typically wants you to be on the same side, but up towards the head of the horse. Typically, the horse will stand better if the head is held straight or bent a little towards the shoer. If the horse acts up your tendency as a holder is to pull the lead thus pulling the nose in your direction. If you were standing on the opposite side and you pulled the head towards you the horse’s butt would move right into the shoer and his shoeing box. When you are on the same side the horse’s rear end will move away from the shoer. Same with the judge…you don’t want the judge to be in danger, it might reflect on your score!!
As you can begin to see the places where you stand while being judged actually aren’t there to try and foul you up but actually come from common sense safety and horse handling skills. Keep your farrier happy by standing in your show positions and get the top showmanship by applying the common sense rules of where your shoer has you stand.
This was just a simple, fun blog entry, because as you know it is springtime and who wants to be at a computer? Not me. I want to be under a horse or on top of a horse.
Saturday, April 18, 2009
The Trim , the basis to good hoof care
The American Farriers Journal sent out a query to me and probably 100+ other farriers to answer a few questions about what we as individuals use as hoof guidelines to accomplish a proper trim. In past blogs I have touched on the importance of a good trim as the base to good hoof care and shoeing. I thought I would make a blog entry on this poll question, as well as, send it into the magazine.
Now most shoers I know don’t carry an x-ray or a radiograph machine with them so we can’t use what is inside the hoof to show us how to trim the hoof. However, once you learn more about the anatomy of the hoof, you learn there are certain outside structures that correlate with the inside structures, mainly the coffin bone, sensitive laminae. Individual shoers use different indicators to help accuire a proper trim.
I tend to use a combination of guidelines. But to begin with, I basically use the frog as an indicator as where to trim the heels and toe. So I first either need to be sure I have a trimmed frog and /or in cases where the horny (old & non-living) frog is not ready to slough off and protection is needed for type of use, I need to acquire an understanding of the size and placement the frog would it be trimmed. Without going into the anatomy in detail, let me say that the tip of a properly trimmed frog gives an indicator where the coffin bone placement. Also, the frog provides guidelines as to how the heels need to be trimmed. Often times trimming the bottom of the hoof to these indicators I end up with a proper angle for that horse. Which can be checked with other references when the horse is standing, such as, the slope of the shoulder.
I believe there are two types of balance when it comes to lateral balance. Which will be for discussion at another time…..One is stationary balance and the other is seen in the movement (landing). In short I will also, use the coronary band as an indicator of “problems” of misplaced pressure. And I use the landing of the foot to judge the final touch ups on a trim, mainly on crooked leg/hoof cases.
One other thought, as far as hoof landmarks to use in achieving a proper trim. I usually find any sand cracks (see past blog entry on cracks), especially at the back of the hoof, indicates imbalance between the front of the hoof and the back. (angle).
Now most shoers I know don’t carry an x-ray or a radiograph machine with them so we can’t use what is inside the hoof to show us how to trim the hoof. However, once you learn more about the anatomy of the hoof, you learn there are certain outside structures that correlate with the inside structures, mainly the coffin bone, sensitive laminae. Individual shoers use different indicators to help accuire a proper trim.
I tend to use a combination of guidelines. But to begin with, I basically use the frog as an indicator as where to trim the heels and toe. So I first either need to be sure I have a trimmed frog and /or in cases where the horny (old & non-living) frog is not ready to slough off and protection is needed for type of use, I need to acquire an understanding of the size and placement the frog would it be trimmed. Without going into the anatomy in detail, let me say that the tip of a properly trimmed frog gives an indicator where the coffin bone placement. Also, the frog provides guidelines as to how the heels need to be trimmed. Often times trimming the bottom of the hoof to these indicators I end up with a proper angle for that horse. Which can be checked with other references when the horse is standing, such as, the slope of the shoulder.
I believe there are two types of balance when it comes to lateral balance. Which will be for discussion at another time…..One is stationary balance and the other is seen in the movement (landing). In short I will also, use the coronary band as an indicator of “problems” of misplaced pressure. And I use the landing of the foot to judge the final touch ups on a trim, mainly on crooked leg/hoof cases.
One other thought, as far as hoof landmarks to use in achieving a proper trim. I usually find any sand cracks (see past blog entry on cracks), especially at the back of the hoof, indicates imbalance between the front of the hoof and the back. (angle).
Thursday, April 2, 2009
If The Shoe Fits Wear It
In the major scheme of things if the shoe-size fits wear it. The main concern when shoeing a horse is not particularly the size of the shoe, but properly trimming the foot then putting a shoe on that fits from the toe (or the desired breakover point) all the way to the heel buttress.
I think for many years some horse breeds wanted small hooves for a nicer look. And possibly various lameness arose from actually forcing the hoof to become small in appearance. Now, I believe the pendulum has swung in the opposite direction and people are determined to have the shoer put the biggest size shoe possible on the horse. When in reality a good shoe job, one that not only looks nice, but also promotes the wellness of the horse from a hoof standpoint (no pun intended!!) is no better than the trim.
Horseshoe manufacturers have unlimited types of shoes for the farrier to choose from. Which correlates with much discrepancy when sizing a shoe. Typically, the smaller the number the smaller the shoe and the more 0’s the smaller. i.e. 000 is smaller than 00 which is smaller than 0 which is smaller than a size 1. Sometimes a different style of shoe from the same company will have a different sizing number, yet in actuality be the same exact size. Thus, just from this reality it is important not to get hung up over the size of shoe your farrier is nailing on your horse.
I have had a number of horses in my clientele base over the years that I have actually shod with one size at one appointment and the next appointment ended up going to a bigger or smaller size. I don’t know if that is technically correct by others in my profession, but the truth is the truth. Each time I just tried to prepare the hooves correctly for that horse at that time and fit a shoe to my trim. Sometimes, if I have a horse that habitually loses a shoe I will try and evaluate my trim/angle/balance and by getting that correct I will end up putting a different shoe size on that doesn’t get pulled...sometimes it turns out to be a bigger size and sometimes a smaller. Other times the size difference comes about after working on neglected feet, a lame horse, or a change in the use of the horse by the rider.
If the shoe fits, stays on, doesn’t cause lameness, looks good, aids in performance --- wear it.
I think for many years some horse breeds wanted small hooves for a nicer look. And possibly various lameness arose from actually forcing the hoof to become small in appearance. Now, I believe the pendulum has swung in the opposite direction and people are determined to have the shoer put the biggest size shoe possible on the horse. When in reality a good shoe job, one that not only looks nice, but also promotes the wellness of the horse from a hoof standpoint (no pun intended!!) is no better than the trim.
Horseshoe manufacturers have unlimited types of shoes for the farrier to choose from. Which correlates with much discrepancy when sizing a shoe. Typically, the smaller the number the smaller the shoe and the more 0’s the smaller. i.e. 000 is smaller than 00 which is smaller than 0 which is smaller than a size 1. Sometimes a different style of shoe from the same company will have a different sizing number, yet in actuality be the same exact size. Thus, just from this reality it is important not to get hung up over the size of shoe your farrier is nailing on your horse.
I have had a number of horses in my clientele base over the years that I have actually shod with one size at one appointment and the next appointment ended up going to a bigger or smaller size. I don’t know if that is technically correct by others in my profession, but the truth is the truth. Each time I just tried to prepare the hooves correctly for that horse at that time and fit a shoe to my trim. Sometimes, if I have a horse that habitually loses a shoe I will try and evaluate my trim/angle/balance and by getting that correct I will end up putting a different shoe size on that doesn’t get pulled...sometimes it turns out to be a bigger size and sometimes a smaller. Other times the size difference comes about after working on neglected feet, a lame horse, or a change in the use of the horse by the rider.
If the shoe fits, stays on, doesn’t cause lameness, looks good, aids in performance --- wear it.
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Trimming hoof with founder
When confronted with a “neglected” chronic founder hoof, I really think the shoer needs to get aggressive and trim the hoof to look as normal as possible in size and shape. I think the “old school” technique is how the trim needs to be accomplished, but may need to be applied repeatedly during the trim session until the desired result is achieved. Basically, even though the toe, in severe cases, is up in the air the trim starts with trimming the heel. Because it is the heel that has typically grown long and drives under the horse, pushing the toe out and up. The frog may not have sloughed off so you will need to continue trimming the frog as well. Then trim the toe, which may require cutting or sawing the extra, out-of-proportion part off from the top. When I say get aggressive I mean, don’t think you have gone far enough and the hoof wall is still over, let’s say for safety reasons, 4 ½ inches long. Many people are worried about quicking the horse, but the quick doesn’t grow out with the sole, frog, wall, etc. (Like a dog’s toenail may) The blood capillaries stay close to the coffin bone, which doesn’t grow down either! It may rotate or drop, but it is still connected to the short pastern which is connected to the long pastern which is connected to the cannon bone, etc. I think if a person thinks of the whole anatomy and what a hoof should look like, they are more apt to get aggressive and trim the hoof enough to actually help the horse’s condition. The final part of the trim should be the removal of any toe flare.
Please see Feb 19th entry for review of terminology related to this topic.
Someday I would love to post some before and after pictures.
Please see Feb 19th entry for review of terminology related to this topic.
Someday I would love to post some before and after pictures.
Sunday, March 8, 2009
"Fake" Sole
It seems since moving to Nevada I have seen many more cases of horses with, what I call, “fake sole”. I think it may be due to the sandy conditions, but it could be any one of a variety of reasons.
What I call “fake sole” is when the horny (or dead) sole does not slough off and takes on the appearance of a sole near the quick or live sole. Meaning it is solid and shiny, etc. The frog can even look healthy and solid. In other words to the untrained eye it seems like the hoof (from the stand point of sole appearance) has been trimmed to its proper depth. If left unattended this foot will grow out of balance. Usually the unbalance properties are in the form of a longer than normal hoof wall. (Did you know that even on Draft horses, the length of the hoof wall from the coronary band down the front of the wall to the ground at the toe usually doesn’t exceed 41/2 inches? And typically on riding horses it ranges from 3 to 4 inches?)
A shoer needs to evaluate the hoof as a whole and get to the true “bottom”, even though it may seem that to go further in paring out the sole would surely result in quicking the sole. I know, I get hesitant even though I am confident I need to trim more. No shoer wants to go too deep and get blood. This is not good for the horse or for securing cliental. But you have to go the distance that the horse needs or again the hoof will start to distort from its true balance.
I will list some of the things I look for to determine if I am dealing with a fake sole and need to trim more off.
· The hoof is just too long even though the sole looks like it can’t be trimmed anymore.
· If you use the apex of the frog as a guideline for the positioning of the toe breakover point, and you eye ball that things are in proportion and the frog looks clean and intact, but it blends into the sole. It is probably stretched and not in proportion with the true frog.
· As you pare away the sole look for any dark fissures especially around the bars. Usually if you start paring these out you will notice some flaking of the sole and realize it can come out.
· Are the commissures real deep? You can usually nip out the bars and find the “bottom”.
Like I said, even though I realize something is not right it is still scary to start removing sole, bars, and wall when things look so solid. But if the farrier constantly reminds himself what a properly trimmed foot is suppose to look like and, moreover, considers the anatomy of the hoof the shoer can have the confidence to trim the hoof to its proper depth. Don’t worry about being slow and cautious. Sometimes it is better to be safe than sorry, so if you can’t get yourself to go where you think it should be try and trim the horse again in less than 6 weeks and maybe some of these signs will start showing themselves more clearly.
Again, these are just some of my thoughts I am journaling on this blog mainly for my own record, but if a shoer or horse owner finds this site I hope they will enjoy some of these essays.
What I call “fake sole” is when the horny (or dead) sole does not slough off and takes on the appearance of a sole near the quick or live sole. Meaning it is solid and shiny, etc. The frog can even look healthy and solid. In other words to the untrained eye it seems like the hoof (from the stand point of sole appearance) has been trimmed to its proper depth. If left unattended this foot will grow out of balance. Usually the unbalance properties are in the form of a longer than normal hoof wall. (Did you know that even on Draft horses, the length of the hoof wall from the coronary band down the front of the wall to the ground at the toe usually doesn’t exceed 41/2 inches? And typically on riding horses it ranges from 3 to 4 inches?)
A shoer needs to evaluate the hoof as a whole and get to the true “bottom”, even though it may seem that to go further in paring out the sole would surely result in quicking the sole. I know, I get hesitant even though I am confident I need to trim more. No shoer wants to go too deep and get blood. This is not good for the horse or for securing cliental. But you have to go the distance that the horse needs or again the hoof will start to distort from its true balance.
I will list some of the things I look for to determine if I am dealing with a fake sole and need to trim more off.
· The hoof is just too long even though the sole looks like it can’t be trimmed anymore.
· If you use the apex of the frog as a guideline for the positioning of the toe breakover point, and you eye ball that things are in proportion and the frog looks clean and intact, but it blends into the sole. It is probably stretched and not in proportion with the true frog.
· As you pare away the sole look for any dark fissures especially around the bars. Usually if you start paring these out you will notice some flaking of the sole and realize it can come out.
· Are the commissures real deep? You can usually nip out the bars and find the “bottom”.
Like I said, even though I realize something is not right it is still scary to start removing sole, bars, and wall when things look so solid. But if the farrier constantly reminds himself what a properly trimmed foot is suppose to look like and, moreover, considers the anatomy of the hoof the shoer can have the confidence to trim the hoof to its proper depth. Don’t worry about being slow and cautious. Sometimes it is better to be safe than sorry, so if you can’t get yourself to go where you think it should be try and trim the horse again in less than 6 weeks and maybe some of these signs will start showing themselves more clearly.
Again, these are just some of my thoughts I am journaling on this blog mainly for my own record, but if a shoer or horse owner finds this site I hope they will enjoy some of these essays.
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